Top Skincare Ingredients to Avoid with AHA

Before you decide to bring any new item into your skincare routine, it's important to know how it might interact with other products you already use or supplements you are taking. This is especially true when it comes to products that contain AHAs, also known as alpha hydroxy acids.

These AHAs are found in various beauty products, according to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), but their primary purpose is to promote skin exfoliation. Healthline cites benefits of AHAs, including skin brightening and wrinkle-reducing effects that are likely to appeal to consumers.

However, you will want to keep an eye out for AHAs in the products you use, as some ingredients should not be mixed with these acids for health reasons. According to Everyday Health, some of the key ingredients to avoid with AHAs include retinol and other retinoids unless the product has been specifically approved for safe use together. Combining these ingredients can lead to irritation.

Regarding the combination of retinol and AHAs, a dermatologist advises, "I strongly advise those also using retinoids for acne or anti-aging to be cautious, as the combination with different acids may cause excessive skin irritation and redness. In fact, AHA and BHA shouldn't generally be used together with retinoids on the same day."

Also, be cautious when using vitamin C with AHAs, as vitamin C is also acidic. According to the same source, niacinamide and AHAs also shouldn't be used together. (Skincare.com has further information on how both niacinamide and AHAs can be used safely.)

Products to Mix with AHAs

While there are many products to avoid using in combination with alpha hydroxy acids, some are recommended to blend with AHAs. A dermatologist explained that using an AHA with a moisturizer is beneficial. The board-certified dermatologist said, "Moisturizing after applying AHA and BHA is extremely important to limit irritation. Look for ceramides, petrolatum, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin to hydrate and soothe the skin."

Discussing experts' views on AHAs, another dermatologist favored lactic acid as an AHA and suggested the use of AHAs and vitamin C in combination, citing the pH levels of both ingredients despite the previously mentioned advice to the contrary. However, be sure to consult with a doctor.

Essential Skincare Ingredients

Skincare can be challenging to navigate, especially when it comes to trendy buzzwords and conventional lingo. From understanding whether traditional skincare is the cure to perfect skin to figuring out if you're spending too much money on your routine, knowing the key ingredients can help.

Key Skincare Ingredients

Azelaic Acid

An antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and depigmenting agent. Its anti-inflammatory action, combined with antibacterial and sebaceous gland regulating functions, makes it a great treatment for mild to moderate acne. It's also beneficial for those suffering from rosacea and can help reduce hyperpigmentation.

Bakuchiol

A gentle but effective alternative to over-the-counter retinol. Though supported by only a few studies, it's a promising ingredient with potential benefits, but users should be cautious as it may be an allergen for some.

Collagen

Known for its hydrating properties when applied topically, it's commonly found in moisturizers. For boosting your skin’s collagen production, consider using low molecular-weight collagen peptide supplements instead.

Exfoliants (Chemical)

AHAs like glycolic acid are popular for their exfoliating properties but can increase sun sensitivity and may not be suitable for sensitive skin. New-generation AHAs such as Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) and Bionic Acids (BAs) offer gentler exfoliation, making them ideal for sensitive skin.

Hydroquinone

The gold standard for fading hyperpigmentation such as melasma and sunspots. Though it has a controversial reputation, hydroquinone is effective under medical supervision and is safe when used appropriately.

Kojic Acid

Used topically for its depigmenting and antioxidant benefits. It can be an alternative to hydroquinone, especially in combination with other non-hydroquinone depigmenting agents.

Niacinamide

A well-known skincare agent that helps with oil control, skin tone, and barrier function. Effective at concentrations of 2-5%, so if your products already contain it, additional serums may not be necessary.

Petrolatum

Also known as petroleum jelly, it's a cost-effective moisturizer that minimizes water evaporation from the skin and helps in skin barrier repair. It can also be used in 'slugging' to seal in other treatments.

Retinoids

Vitamin A derivatives that help reduce signs of aging and hyperpigmentation. Consult a dermatologist for prescription retinoids, which are more effective than over-the-counter options as they are already in their active form.

Salicylic Acid

This oil-soluble exfoliant helps clear oily blockages in pores and does not increase sun sensitivity.

Tazarotene

A topical retinoid specifically designed for acne treatment. It is more effective than other retinoids in reducing acne bumps and comedones.

UV Radiation

Responsible for most signs of skin aging, such as hyperpigmentation and broken blood vessels. SPF should be your primary defense against UV damage.

Water

Dry skin results from losing more water than it retains. Moisturizers with humectants and occlusives can help keep your skin hydrated. Choose a moisturizer that suits your skin type and needs.

Zinc Oxide

A physical UV filter used in sunscreens that absorbs UV radiation and converts it into heat, protecting the skin without worsening hyperpigmentation.

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